The mature, savory nose on this Sangiovese shows fennel, orange, wet slate and a cigar that has just been left to fizzle out, while the palate turns to figs, chocolate, soil and the last sip of a caffè corretto. Still so spritely at this age, it will no doubt only reveal more elegance with time.

The 2015 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva bursts up from the glass with a rich mix of crushed black cherries, cinnamon and cloves, complemented by a refreshing whiff of fresh mint. This is deeply textural with masses of ripe red and black fruits offset by stimulating acidity, as a collection of salty minerals and tannins collect toward the close. It leaves nuances of licorice and exotic spice to linger, as a pleasant twang of sour citrus offsets the lasting tannins within. While balanced enough to give satisfaction at this stage of its maturity, the 2015 would benefit from a few more years of cellaring, or a good decant.