This estate's finest effort - ever, the 2005 Malescot St.-Exupery should be sought out by readers looking for intensity combined with superb richness, fascinating elegance, and a surreal concoction of blue and red fruits, a silky texture, and a delicate yet powerful wine that builds incrementally, never becoming overwrought. This dense purple-colored, medium to full-bodied tour de force in winemaking is already displaying remarkable complexity. It should only get better over the next decade, and will last through 2030. I would not be surprised to see this wine merit a few more points with additional aging.

Exhibits blackberry, mineral, currant and dark chocolate. Full and velvety, with lots of fruit and chewy tannins. Long and caressing, with incredibly sweet fruit and tannins on the finish. Goes on for minutes. A thoroughly gorgeous wine. Best after 2015.

91-93 Barrel sample. Big, ripe and juicy-a Dolly Parton wine. With exuberant fruitiness this is attractive now, but there are solid, firm tannins, so the wine will perhaps grow up.