Issuing as usual from old vines in several St Andelain sites (both Kimmeridgian and flinty), Ladoucette's 2008 Pouilly-Fume Baron de L represents the latest in a line that constitutes the first-ever high-ticket "cult" Loire Sauvignon, though unlike so many subsequent contenders for high price and notoriety, one that sees no wood, but rather only extended lees contact in tank. Leesy richness is signaled already the nose, but so is the tingling, pleasantly stinging, vibratory intensity of nettle, sage, huckleberry, fresh grapefruit, lime zest, citrus pip, and pineapple close to its core. This leaves one's palate aquiver yet feeling scoured: a handsomely austere, bracing Sauvignon that demonstrates how to make a big statement at only 12.5% alcohol. Past renditions as well as the concentration and energy evinced at this stage point toward a wine that will be well worth following for at least another dozen years.