The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape should ultimately eclipse the 2005 and 1998. It appears to be one of the finest wines made by Daniel Brunier and his brother. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by a superb nose of nori seaweed wrappers, licorice, pepper, tobacco leaf, and gobs of sweet black cherry and black currant fruit. Full-bodied with a fabulous texture, purity, and freshness (a consistent hallmark of this vintage), a juicy, rich, layered mouthfeel, and a finish that lasts for 45+ seconds. Although young, the tannin, acidity, and alcohol are all well-integrated. Typically, this wine tends to be dormant for 3-5 years after bottling, then emerge brilliantly. Therefore, I would wait until 2012 before pulling a cork on this one. Drink it over the following 20-25 years. Score range: 94-96.

Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage, with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and dark licorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilled mesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone¿filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2030.