Fresh, with herbal dill and currant aromas, this is fresh and concentrated on the palate. Intense, with vivid currant, anise, herb and cedar notes. Ends with a complex aftertaste, firm tannins and good structure. The best of five bottles.--1996 California Cabernet retrospective. Drink now through 2010.

The 1996 Insignia (83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot) exhibits a dark purple color in addition to an elegant nose of cedar wood, fruitcake, coffee, and black currants. Medium to full-bodied, with a firm underpinning of tannin, classic black currant flavors, and a long finish, this effort is impressive, but tight and narrowly-constructed. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2020.