The 2009 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Réserve des Deux Frères is a cellar selection of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah that's aged half in 300-liter new oak barrels, 20% in 1-year-old barrels, and the rest in concrete tank. Possessing a full-bodied, powerful feel, the wine shows only hints of its oak elevage with touches of vanilla and graphite that are balanced beautifully by decadent black fruits, tar, licorice, roasted meat, and herb aromas and flavors. While there's solid structure and loads of ripe tannin, it stays fresh, impeccably balanced, and has serious length on the classically styled finish. This should be at its best 5-7 years after the vintage, and have 15+ years of longevity.

Bright violet color. Wildly complex scents of black raspberry, cherry compote, sassafras, allspice and licorice. Lush and palate-staining, with noteworthy intensity to its open-knit dark berry, spicecake and floral pastille flavors. Silky tannins come on late and meld smoothly with the deep, sappy fruit, which refuses to let go of the palate. I underestimated this powerful, vibrant wine last year.

The barrel-aged, all-Grenache 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres shows hints of cedar and mocha on the nose, then moves into mature notes of leather, date and fig, finishing chocolaty and warm. It's still full-bodied and lush on the palate, but without the freshness and bold primary fruit of its youth, the alcohol has become more apparent. Drink it over the next few years.