This graceful, bright Champagne features a chime of Meyer lemon peel and mouthwatering acidity, with finely meshed flavors of baked yellow plum, pastry, pickled ginger and smoke-laced mineral that intensify as they expand on the lightly mouthcoating and creamy mousse. Seamlessly knit, this is hard to stop sipping as it dances across the palate. Drink now through 2025.

The 2002 Dom Pérignon P2 is showing very well indeed, wafting from the glass with aromas of crisp yellow orchard fruit, dried white flowers, orange oil, smoky peach, peat and praline. On the palate, it's full-bodied, broad and textural, with a ripe and muscular core of fruit, ripe acids and fine concentration, concluding with a long and elegantly toasty finish. As I wrote earlier this year, this is a ripe and powerful Dom Pérignon that finds its closest stylistic analogy in the 1990 vintage, and it is considerably less evolved than the more tertiary 2000 P2 today. While the P2 is a bit drier and more precise on the finish than the original release, given the wine's slow evolution, the difference between the two is less pronounced than it has been for any vintage since 1996. To my palate, it really needs four or five years in the cellar before it truly starts to blossom.