The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Tête de Cru Clos de Jeanne is how Ferret's "Le Clos" bottling has been rechristened, the conundrum being that this parcel falls within the new premier cru Les Perrières. While the label may have changed, the wine behind the label is as excellent as ever, exhibiting aromas of citrus oil, pear and crisp stone fruit mingled with notions of blanched almonds and vanilla pod. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with a fleshy core, lively acids and a precise, nutmeg-inflected finish, it's one of the most charming bottlings in the range.

The 2020 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos de Jeanne 1er Cru, which comes from the climat of Les Perrières, is matured in 25% new oak for 10 months. It has a nicely focused bouquet with leesy, yellow fruit aromas that are well-defined, hints of white tea emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine spine of acidity, quite crunchy in the mouth, hints of almond and caramelised pear leading to a nicely- proportioned and persistent finish. Worth seeking out.