Even though two-thirds of the vines are over a century old, Dominique Lafon remarked that the half- hectare still produced eight barrels, around 40hl/ha. The 2019 Volnay Les Champans 1er Cru is deeper in color than the Clos des Chênes, featuring dark cherries, raspberry and a light marine influence on the nose; good intensity here. The palate is certainly well structured, with more matière than the aforementioned Clos des Chênes, and grippy with a slightly grainy finish. Dense, yet so pure and elegant. This is a long-term prospect.

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is also very elegant this year, but it's deeper-pitched than the more red-fruited Clos des Chênes, bursting with scents of dark berries, petals and spices. Medium to full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's supple and refined, with powdery tannins and a pretty core of fruit.