The 2019 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises four barrels, of which one is new. It has a charming, well-defined and very pure bouquet of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit laced with crushed stone. The palate is silky-smooth right from the start, very cohesive and displaying a fine bead of acidity; it actually reminds me of Michel Lafarge in style. This will be utterly seductive.

There are four barrels of the 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes, a pretty, delicate, medium-bodied wine that's perfumed and charming, evoking notions of petals, plums and red berries. As is often the case, this is a refined middleweight.